The weather today was scheduled to be “mixed,” and it was—mixed between rain and bright sun in one place and widely varying weather from just moving down the road a mile or two. But it all worked out so that we could get the two things we wanted to do done.
First up was a revisit of the Loch Snizort area at Skeabost where we stayed on a past trip. This was the setting for a fierce 16th century battle between the MacLeods and the MacDonalds during which many clan members literally lost their heads. A gruesome sight was the dismembered heads later to be seen floating down the river. I think the pool of water at the bottom of the little falls where the water swirls all around was called the Cauldron of the Bloody Heads, or something like that. Skeabost was another place where St. Columba established a religious base. He actually landed at the river and walked on this tiny island, St. Columba’s Island. You cross the Skeabost Bridge then walk alongside the River Snizort then cross a wooden bridge to get onto the little island in the mouth of the River Snizort. Interesting tombstones are located here of the Nicolsons and MacLeods and two of the knight effigy stone slabs. This is an ancient burial ground and site of the Cathedral Church of the Bishop of the Isles from 1079 to 1498. Also here is the Mortuary Chapel Nicolson’s Aisle where 28 chiefs of the Nicolson Clan are buried. The effigy in the Nicolson Aisle was carved in the 16th century by the same person who carved the one of John MacLeod that is in St. Clement’s Church, Rodel, Harris.
Next we drove down to the Sligachan Hotel and parked for our hike up Sgurr nan Gillean (965m.) to the waterfalls in the Cuillins. There must’ve been at least 30 waterfalls on our way up. This was the same route that Ray took the other day, only I only went as far as the “crazy scary two-planks across some shaky rocks” bridge. I stood on one side of the bridge, but that’s about it. The hike up to it was amazing, in places looking like a tropical rainforest and in others like the Yorkshire moors. Very boggy off the trail. I could imagine getting caught here in storm or fog and losing your way on the trail and walking off into the boggy area and never being seen again. Cows have done this and have had to be shot because they couldn’t get them out!
The hike was wonderful and amazing and the Cuillins were fantastic. The only thing that would have made it better was if the two Tornados we saw fly over had come screaming through the canyon like they did the day Ray climbed.
We got back to the car just as the heavy rain began, so we stopped at Aros Centre for lunch—their open faced Cajun Chicken Panini—yum. Just a few miles up the road, the rains stopped and the sun came out as bright as ever. We were headed back north when we had to come to a complete halt in the middle of the road—A SHEEP TRAFFIC JAM!!! There was a farmer and his border collies herding what had to be at least 200 sheep right up the road to get to a new pasture! It was incredible. They were baaing the whole way, just blabbering away to each other with the doggies doing a great job of keeping them going in the right direction. Such fun to watch.
Internet use at Columba then dinner at home. Ray went up to the summit of the Quiraings this evening.
Pictures from top: sunset at the cottage; Brother’s Point; effigy on St. Columba’s Island; thistle; in the Cuillins.
