Decided I needed a down day. Just looking over my blog for the last 2 months exhausts me. So today I:
Had breakfast at Cucina LC
Supervised repacking
Texted/emailed with Katie, Laura, Luanne & Judi
Went to dinner at The Standing Order
Picked up some snacks at Marks & Spencer
Watched a cute dog walking his man from the bus
It was a fantastic day. And not a single picture to post as I didn’t take any. Lazy, lazy me. : )
Thursday, June 4, 2009
Wednesday, June 3--Rosslyn Chapel
After another delicious breakfast at Debenham’s, we caught the #15 bus to Rosslyn Chapel, just a short walk from the old hotel.
Ahhh, Rosslyn Chapel, a place I have wanted to visit for so long. It was founded in 1446 by Sir William St. Clair and took 40 years to build (Some say the Knights Templar built it). It was seized during the Reformation when England was trying to eradicate the Catholic religion, and its altars were destroyed. In 1650, Cromwell attacked the Castle here and stabled his horses in the Chapel. In 1688, the locals damaged the Chapel, considering the furniture and vestments as idolatrous and too Pope-ish.
William Wordsworth’s wife, Dorothy, visited in 1807 and remarked that the architecture inside was exquisitely beautiful but that she feared it would fall as nothing was being done to keep it together.
Over the years, some repairs were done, but in 1954 work began to preserve the Chapel. Unfortunately, the methods used have proved to be even more degrading to the surfaces. Therefore, extensive repairs and restoration methods have been used since 1997 to undo the damage of the years of pollution and the methods used in the 50s, which caused further condensation and damage.
A huge steel canopy has been erected over the entire chapel, which will enable the stone fabric of the roof vaults to dry out. Repairs to other parts such as stained glass and pinnacles and interior are also ongoing. The sad thing is, the method they used in the 50s was a gray slurry cement covering which covered up the natural coloring of the sandstone. Some of this coloring has come back on the exterior, and I can only imagine how beautiful it will be in the future if they can do this for the interior also.
Our tour guide told us about the history of the St. Clair family and the Chapel and pointed out interesting features of the Chapel to explore. The crypt was actually open and we descended the stone steps excitedly. There was none of the stuff from Da Vinci Code there, but it was still cool. The guide explained the large white circle on the wall as you go down the steps, saying that the producers of the film were not supposed to attach anything to the walls, but evidently they glued the large 6-pointed star here and when they removed it, it left what she referred to as the “Hollywood Circle.”
Down in the crypt were pieces of stone carvings, but not the starry roof. This is where I found the tomb of William de St. Clair and underneath his name was the title "Knight Templar." Wow! It would have been amazing to see the roof of the Chapel itself (it was covered with scaffolding and so high up), as it supposedly has hundreds of carvings of daisies, lilies, flowers, roses, and stars upon it. And somewhere on it is a field of stars with a grail amongst them, "pouring out the grace of God." There were so many carvings in the stone, it would be difficult to list them all. I looked for the one of the two knights riding the horse, but I didn't see it. There were many tombs and grave slabs here, too. And it was interesting to see the number of devils, angels, dragons, and gargoyles. Tucked away at the tops of pillars are scenes from Christ’s life and crucifixion. And on one is an angel playing bagpipes, in stone this time, not in stained glass.
There are over 100 Green Men in the Chapel. This is a pagan fertility symbol and shows the Celtic influence. He symbolizes the capacity for great goodness and the parallel scope for significant evil—as in the Robin Hood legends, which sprang from this. One of the latest pieces of news was that a code has been found in the ceiling in the 213 cubes which form a 6 ½ minute piece of music for 13 medieval players. One theory is that if this is played in the chapel, its secrets will be revealed.
The heads of the St. Clair family were hereditary Grand Master Masons of Scotland. The Lady Chapel is especially full of angels whose positions are significant in the rites of freemasonry. On leaving the Lady Chapel, one of the first things you see is the Mason’s Pillar. This was the work of the Master Mason. It is beautiful and simple. Jus ton the other side of the chapel is the Apprentice Pillar. It is amazingly intricate and delicate in its carving as they curve up the pillar. The story goes that while the Master was away, the apprentice created his pillar and upon the Master’s return, he was so jealous that the apprentice’s pillar was more beautiful than his that he struck the apprentice with his mallet and killed him on the spot. He was tried and convicted of murder. In two corners of the chapel are the carved likenesses of the master and the apprentice (with a scar on his right temple).
There are many theories about the Apprentice Pillar, including the idea that it might be hollow and contain the Holy Grail, part of the true cross of Christ, Scrolls of the Temple, the true Stone of Destiny, a lost gospel, the Ark of the Covenant or some other piece of history. One of the most interesting stories that I had never heard was the one that relates to the carvings of Indian corn (maize) on the arch above one of the Chapel windows. Remember these carvings were done in 1446, long before Columbus came to America. So how did these people know of maize—a plant unknown in Britain when the chapel was built? Well, the story goes that Henry, 1st Prince of Orkney & grandfather of William St. Clair, discovered America nearly one hundred years before Columbus did. Prince Henry is said to have sailed and landed in Nova Scotia and wintered with the Micmac Indians while he sent a party back to Orkney for supplies. The Micmacs have a story of the man/god Glooscap who came from the east and taught them to fish with nets and is still spoken of today.
Henry tried to sail back to the Orkneys in 1399 but ran into bad weather and landed in what is now Massachusetts. The story of the voyage was published by his great great great grandson, Zeno, and is known as the Zeno Narrative and Map. There is much other evidence of this voyage here in America—a grave slab, a canon, etc.
There are also many carvings in the chapel with Knights Templar associations—two knights on horseback, Templar crosses and shields, etc. A Templar leader and grand master was married to Katherine St. Clair and two members of the St. Clair family were allegedly grand masters of the Priory of Sion in the 13th and 14th centuries. A few miles from Rosslyn is a town called Temple where there is a ruined church and a plantation in the shape of the splayed Templar cross called Templar Wood. Carvings in the chapel include the 5-point star, the dove in flight carrying an olive branch, the floriated cross, and the artichoke—all Templar symbols. It is said that this chapel may have been a place for the Knights Templar to escape to following their persecutions in Europe. There is a tomb in the crypt of William St. Clair who dies in Spain in 1330 while trying to escort the heart of Robert Bruce to the Holy Land. Under his name is carved, “KNIGHT TEMPLAR.” There are many unexplored chambers underneath the chapel, so who kows what may be found there.
It is also said that Rossyln Chapel is a representation of Solomon’s Temple in Jerusalem. All of this was fascinating to discover, but I hope to go back again during our longer stay in July or September to discover more about the Chapel and the Templar Woods. And Sunday services are held at the chapel along with Evensong, so a return visit is a must.
Except for the visit to Rosslyn, today was a day of frustrations. From getting off at the wrong bus stops and having to walk forever, to turning over a boiling kettle full of noodles onto my pants, to having no internet in our particular room, the huge window will only open about 4 inches at the bottom so not much ventilation, the maid not refilling an obviously empty toilet paper dispenser or vacuuming floor, yucky lunch of greasy fish and chips, to a real live fire alarm in our building!!! Yes, throwing on a jacket over my nightgown and going out in the cold to wait for the firemen to check the building out at 10:30pm. And I got nothing done today except going to Rosslyn Chapel, which was really cool, but they don't let you take photos!!! I love to take pictures to capture the essence of a place, but that is restricted on the interiors here. And there is no doorknob on the inside of the bathroom door in our room. I can't believe no one has mentioned it so that it could be fixed. So of course, first day here, I get stuck in the bathroom and have to be rescued by Ray. Needless to say, I am not such a fan of Haymarket Travelodge, though the area is nice and quiet.
We waited for the bus across from the Old Rosslyn Inn, which has a Grail Restaurant and has been visited by King Edward VII, Queen Victoria, Dr. Samuel Johnson and James Boswell, Robert Burns, Sir Walter Scott and William and Dorothy Wordsworth.
Tomorrow should be a day of laundry, blogging, and shuffling as we prepare for the trip south.
***pictures from top: Rosslyn Chapel; taken from walkway above church showing canopy allowing stonework to dry out; stone that has already been cleaned and dried shows its colors; gargoyle on outside of chapel; window above door.
Ahhh, Rosslyn Chapel, a place I have wanted to visit for so long. It was founded in 1446 by Sir William St. Clair and took 40 years to build (Some say the Knights Templar built it). It was seized during the Reformation when England was trying to eradicate the Catholic religion, and its altars were destroyed. In 1650, Cromwell attacked the Castle here and stabled his horses in the Chapel. In 1688, the locals damaged the Chapel, considering the furniture and vestments as idolatrous and too Pope-ish.
William Wordsworth’s wife, Dorothy, visited in 1807 and remarked that the architecture inside was exquisitely beautiful but that she feared it would fall as nothing was being done to keep it together.
Over the years, some repairs were done, but in 1954 work began to preserve the Chapel. Unfortunately, the methods used have proved to be even more degrading to the surfaces. Therefore, extensive repairs and restoration methods have been used since 1997 to undo the damage of the years of pollution and the methods used in the 50s, which caused further condensation and damage.
A huge steel canopy has been erected over the entire chapel, which will enable the stone fabric of the roof vaults to dry out. Repairs to other parts such as stained glass and pinnacles and interior are also ongoing. The sad thing is, the method they used in the 50s was a gray slurry cement covering which covered up the natural coloring of the sandstone. Some of this coloring has come back on the exterior, and I can only imagine how beautiful it will be in the future if they can do this for the interior also.
Our tour guide told us about the history of the St. Clair family and the Chapel and pointed out interesting features of the Chapel to explore. The crypt was actually open and we descended the stone steps excitedly. There was none of the stuff from Da Vinci Code there, but it was still cool. The guide explained the large white circle on the wall as you go down the steps, saying that the producers of the film were not supposed to attach anything to the walls, but evidently they glued the large 6-pointed star here and when they removed it, it left what she referred to as the “Hollywood Circle.”
Down in the crypt were pieces of stone carvings, but not the starry roof. This is where I found the tomb of William de St. Clair and underneath his name was the title "Knight Templar." Wow! It would have been amazing to see the roof of the Chapel itself (it was covered with scaffolding and so high up), as it supposedly has hundreds of carvings of daisies, lilies, flowers, roses, and stars upon it. And somewhere on it is a field of stars with a grail amongst them, "pouring out the grace of God." There were so many carvings in the stone, it would be difficult to list them all. I looked for the one of the two knights riding the horse, but I didn't see it. There were many tombs and grave slabs here, too. And it was interesting to see the number of devils, angels, dragons, and gargoyles. Tucked away at the tops of pillars are scenes from Christ’s life and crucifixion. And on one is an angel playing bagpipes, in stone this time, not in stained glass.
There are over 100 Green Men in the Chapel. This is a pagan fertility symbol and shows the Celtic influence. He symbolizes the capacity for great goodness and the parallel scope for significant evil—as in the Robin Hood legends, which sprang from this. One of the latest pieces of news was that a code has been found in the ceiling in the 213 cubes which form a 6 ½ minute piece of music for 13 medieval players. One theory is that if this is played in the chapel, its secrets will be revealed.
The heads of the St. Clair family were hereditary Grand Master Masons of Scotland. The Lady Chapel is especially full of angels whose positions are significant in the rites of freemasonry. On leaving the Lady Chapel, one of the first things you see is the Mason’s Pillar. This was the work of the Master Mason. It is beautiful and simple. Jus ton the other side of the chapel is the Apprentice Pillar. It is amazingly intricate and delicate in its carving as they curve up the pillar. The story goes that while the Master was away, the apprentice created his pillar and upon the Master’s return, he was so jealous that the apprentice’s pillar was more beautiful than his that he struck the apprentice with his mallet and killed him on the spot. He was tried and convicted of murder. In two corners of the chapel are the carved likenesses of the master and the apprentice (with a scar on his right temple).
There are many theories about the Apprentice Pillar, including the idea that it might be hollow and contain the Holy Grail, part of the true cross of Christ, Scrolls of the Temple, the true Stone of Destiny, a lost gospel, the Ark of the Covenant or some other piece of history. One of the most interesting stories that I had never heard was the one that relates to the carvings of Indian corn (maize) on the arch above one of the Chapel windows. Remember these carvings were done in 1446, long before Columbus came to America. So how did these people know of maize—a plant unknown in Britain when the chapel was built? Well, the story goes that Henry, 1st Prince of Orkney & grandfather of William St. Clair, discovered America nearly one hundred years before Columbus did. Prince Henry is said to have sailed and landed in Nova Scotia and wintered with the Micmac Indians while he sent a party back to Orkney for supplies. The Micmacs have a story of the man/god Glooscap who came from the east and taught them to fish with nets and is still spoken of today.
Henry tried to sail back to the Orkneys in 1399 but ran into bad weather and landed in what is now Massachusetts. The story of the voyage was published by his great great great grandson, Zeno, and is known as the Zeno Narrative and Map. There is much other evidence of this voyage here in America—a grave slab, a canon, etc.
There are also many carvings in the chapel with Knights Templar associations—two knights on horseback, Templar crosses and shields, etc. A Templar leader and grand master was married to Katherine St. Clair and two members of the St. Clair family were allegedly grand masters of the Priory of Sion in the 13th and 14th centuries. A few miles from Rosslyn is a town called Temple where there is a ruined church and a plantation in the shape of the splayed Templar cross called Templar Wood. Carvings in the chapel include the 5-point star, the dove in flight carrying an olive branch, the floriated cross, and the artichoke—all Templar symbols. It is said that this chapel may have been a place for the Knights Templar to escape to following their persecutions in Europe. There is a tomb in the crypt of William St. Clair who dies in Spain in 1330 while trying to escort the heart of Robert Bruce to the Holy Land. Under his name is carved, “KNIGHT TEMPLAR.” There are many unexplored chambers underneath the chapel, so who kows what may be found there.
It is also said that Rossyln Chapel is a representation of Solomon’s Temple in Jerusalem. All of this was fascinating to discover, but I hope to go back again during our longer stay in July or September to discover more about the Chapel and the Templar Woods. And Sunday services are held at the chapel along with Evensong, so a return visit is a must.
Except for the visit to Rosslyn, today was a day of frustrations. From getting off at the wrong bus stops and having to walk forever, to turning over a boiling kettle full of noodles onto my pants, to having no internet in our particular room, the huge window will only open about 4 inches at the bottom so not much ventilation, the maid not refilling an obviously empty toilet paper dispenser or vacuuming floor, yucky lunch of greasy fish and chips, to a real live fire alarm in our building!!! Yes, throwing on a jacket over my nightgown and going out in the cold to wait for the firemen to check the building out at 10:30pm. And I got nothing done today except going to Rosslyn Chapel, which was really cool, but they don't let you take photos!!! I love to take pictures to capture the essence of a place, but that is restricted on the interiors here. And there is no doorknob on the inside of the bathroom door in our room. I can't believe no one has mentioned it so that it could be fixed. So of course, first day here, I get stuck in the bathroom and have to be rescued by Ray. Needless to say, I am not such a fan of Haymarket Travelodge, though the area is nice and quiet.
We waited for the bus across from the Old Rosslyn Inn, which has a Grail Restaurant and has been visited by King Edward VII, Queen Victoria, Dr. Samuel Johnson and James Boswell, Robert Burns, Sir Walter Scott and William and Dorothy Wordsworth.
Tomorrow should be a day of laundry, blogging, and shuffling as we prepare for the trip south.
***pictures from top: Rosslyn Chapel; taken from walkway above church showing canopy allowing stonework to dry out; stone that has already been cleaned and dried shows its colors; gargoyle on outside of chapel; window above door.
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