Amazing Clouds

taken this evening--sunset and a cloud shaped like Africa.

Dunadd—where Scotland Began August 5, 2011

In the 9th century (842), Kenneth mac Alpin became King of Scots at Dunadd. Part of the ceremony involved him placing his foot into the carved footprint in the rock atop Dunadd. He united the kingdoms and also became King of the Picts. The earliest king of the Scots was in 574 when St. Columba placed his hand on the head of King Aeden on Iona. After mac Alpin, the next recorded information is in 1249 when King Alexander III was enthroned on the Stone of Scone bearing the Crown, Sword, and Sceptre. But Dalriada was first founded by Fergus Mor in about 500 AD.

Dunadd was a complex fortification, defended by four lines of walling on different levels. It was also a center of fine metalworking. Several molds used in the making of brooches and other items have been found here. In addition to the footprint, there is a figure of a boar, a rock-cut basin, and several lines from an inscription in an unknown language (ogham). When we climbed Dunadd today, we didn’t know it, but we unwittingly found all four! The boar and the inscriptions are VERY faint. I found some inscriptions near the footprint that were the symbol for feather, but evidently this is not the ones everyone talks about (a line of alphabet). And actually, I think the “boar head” we found carved into the side of a large cliffstone was much more impressive than the boar craving anyway, but when I got home and blew up the pictures, I can see the boar and the inscriptions in my photos. The climb wasn’t hard but kept switching back and forth in a rocky and zigzag pattern all up the 175 ft. hill. We only had to scramble a couple of times. I could imagine that this would be a very good defense mechanism for making the way up for enemies very difficult. The view from the top is very pretty. I, of course, had to put my foot in the footprint. I am a Scott after all. The basin just behind the stone with the footprint. Both were used in the coronation ceremonies of the Scottish Kings.

The Crinan Canal—a 9 mile shortcut cut from the western coast to central Scotland—brought traders with rare minerals from the Mediterranean for illuminating manuscripts, gold, herbs, dyes from the Loire, and tin from Cornwall. The King here in Dalriada could drink imported wine out of glass beakers from the Continent and eat meat flavored with spices from France. Jewelers worked in a separate part of the fort making brooches, pins and rings that the King could give as gifts. The jewelers fused styles from Ireland, England, and Pictland. These items were worn as badges of wealth.

The King here in Dalriada was also king of Dalriada in Irelnad. There was close contact with the Irish and contact with the monks at Iona. This was a warrior society, however, and there have been more weapons found here than anywhere in Britain. There were fierce struggles with the Picts, Britons, Angles, and Norse. Also found here was the largest collection of Continental pottery in Britain. The Dalriadans probably traded slaves, leather, and furs for the items they needed or wanted. There is a record my a monk at Iona that tells of St. Columba meeting with Gallic sailors at caput regionis—the head of the region. This was Dunadd at Dalriada. “Dalriada” is Gaelic for Reti’s Tribe. In a 6 mile area of the Kilmartin Glen can be found 350 monuments dating from 3500 years ago. By 850, the pressure from Viking raids caused the kingdom to move to Scone.

As far as my family of Scotts, the name Scott is believed to be of Gaelic origin. There was a race of 2nd century invaders from Ireland called Scoti which meant both “blue men” (referring to tattoos) and “one not from here.” The Scotts invaded the Dalraida (Argyll) region from Dalraida, Ireland. The came to the southwest Pictish area—Islay, Jura, South Mull, Iona, Kintyre, and Argyll and had their capital at Dunadd near Crinan. Here is the summit rock to crown Scottish kings.

One Uchted filius Scot is mentioned in the foundation charter of Selkirk in 1120. Other famous Scotts were Henricus le Scotte in 1195, Michael leScot in Fife in the 13th century, Richard le Scot of Murthoston or Murdostoun, and Sir John Scott in the 16th century associated with Scotstarvit Tower near Cupar.

Supposedly the extra “t” was added to the name in the 17th century to distinguish a member of the Scott family from “one from Scotland.” It is said that Clan Scott lent its name to the sovereign country. The Scotts fought at Flodden with King James V. Many families and clans shifted their alliances to benefit their needs. The most notable episodes for Scott feuds occurred in the 16th and 17th centuries with the Kerrs, Elliotts, Charltons, and others. Scott family place names include Harden, Balwearie, and Buccleuch.
From atop Dunadd, I saw far in the distance on the cliffside near Crinan the Duntruce Castle, home first to the MacDougalls then to the MacDonalds. Interesting story goes along with this castle: The ghost of a handless piper is said to haunt the castle. According to one story, the Macdonald piper was sent into the castle as a spy, but was found out. He was imprisoned, but played his pipes to warn the Macdonalds that their 'surprise' attack was now expected. Alasdair Mac Colla ("Colkitto") retreated, and the piper's hands were cut off by the Campbells.
According to another story, the Macdonalds captured the castle. The Macdonald chieftain needed to return home for some reason and left a small garrison to defend the castle, with the chieftain's personal piper among them. While he was away, the castle was recaptured by the Campbells and the Campbells laid a trap for the Macdonalds.

As the Macdonalds sailed returning to the castle, they heard, as expected the piper playing a tune of welcome from the castle ramparts. As the MacDonald boat grew closer, the Macdonalds were able to discern the tune and recognised it as a warning. The small boat was turned away and the trap failed. To punish the piper, his hands were cut off so that he may never play again. The piper died of his injuries.
During a set of renovations at the castle, workers unearthed a handless human skeleton, whose hands had been removed by clean cuts to the wrist. There is some possibility that this skeleton is that of the Piper Of Duntrune. The skeleton was unearthed and had been buried near the castle.

On the way back from Dunadd, we saw the Ballymeanoch Stanidng Stones (6 stones in two groups—4 and 2, the tallest 13 ½ feet), and Kilmartin Church. The two most important monuments here are the Kilmartin crosses, one 9th-10th century, the other late medieval in date, within the church. In the churchyard are a large collection of late medieval gravestones in the 'West Highland' style, dating between the 14th and early 16th centuries. Many are marked by figures of warriors in contemporary dress with spears and swords, along with figures of fantastic animals, foliage and interlace patterns. None are inscribed, so the identities of the persons commemorated are unknown. They can, however, be taken to be the monuments of the local landowning or minor noble class in late medieval times. Kilmartin Church was evidently an important burial site, and the graveslabs of the Loch Awe school of carving may have been carved in a workshop at or near Kilmartin. The swords shown on many of the stones refer to warrior (or, more broadly, social) status, and probably have no connection with the Templars or other medieval military orders, as is sometimes suggested. Women are commemorated on some of the stones, their symbol often being the shears (referring to household activities).

In Kilmelford, a pretty little church stood on a rise. We also saw several of the really interesting trees that I keep finding. I love their creepiness with their gnarled and twisted branches. They have no leaves now but could have earlier in the season. I just wish I knew what they are. I have tried to get a picture every time, but Ray is driving so fast I miss it. Maybe they are Rowan trees. I have read that Rowan trees protect against evil. That’s why you should never harm them or cut them down. These trees I’ve seen recently certainly look like they could protect from whatever came their way. If their bark was darker, I would call them Halloween trees. From pictures on the internet, I have surmised that they may be dead hawthorn trees or, indeed, dead rowan trees. One of them had these extremely gnarled “arms” that looked….well….hold your arm out and bend your elbow and point your index finger and your other fingers are loosely curled inward and now let your wrist fall back—that’s how the tree looked. With hundreds of “arms” like that. Truly creepy and mysterious. One of my favorite trees ever.

Today is packing up day for the move to the Isle of Skye’s Staffin Bay Cottage for two weeks. This will be our last “long-stay” place as after this we head south to see some of my mother’s family graves and to see Margaret & Colin once again, then further south to Dover to catch our cruiseship home. Nearing the end of a very adventuresome trip. Looking forward to getting home and getting a home. Dinner at Oban Steakhouse.

Pictures from top: Dunadd; footprint in stone; my foot in the footprint; hand-carved basin on Dunadd; looking down to the car park and houses.

Kilmartin Glen

From top: View from atop Dunadd Hill Fort with footprint where earliest Scottish Kings were crowned; Ray still looking for the inscriptions; Ballymeanoch Standing Stones; Kilmartin Church with its interesting graveyard.