Our first order of business for the day was a tour of Edinburgh Castle. We saw the gun that is fired at 1 o’clock everyday except Sunday and Mons Meg, the giant siege gun used since 1457 and against the English. It was last fired in 1681 when the barrel burst. Here also is the oldest building in Edinburgh, St. Margaret’s Chapel with its beautiful stained glass. This chapel was built by King David I in the 12th century to his mother who died here in 1093. We also saw the Dog Cemetery—only 1 of 2 in the UK—where since Queen Victoria, the Mascots and dogs of Officers have been buried.
Two interesting things I learned: The castle has changed hands several times between the English and Scottish. In 1314, Robert the Bruce’s 30 men ascended the North precipice and took the English (who had taken the castle earlier) by surprise. In 1341, Scots disguised as merchants dropped their wares at the castle gate to keep it open and then many other Scots rushed in to cut the throats of the English or behead them and throw their bodies over the crags.
Oh, and ghostly troops have been heard a few minutes past midnight here at the castle.
I had been watching The Tudors on TV before we came over and it is interesting to see how all the history worked out. So Margaret Tudor and Henry VIII were brother and sister. Margaret Tudor had a son (King James V) who married Mary of Guise of France. They had a daughter, Mary Queen of Scots. Henry VIII demanded that Mary Queen of Scots marry his son, Edward, when she was only 3 years old so that the country could be united (this was called the rough wooing & she didn't end up marrying him). She later married and had a son, James VI/I, who united England and Scotland under his rule.
We saw the Scottish jewels—the Crown and Sceptre and Sword of State—and the Stone of Destiny. The jewels date from the 6th century and were hidden from Cromwell in 1651 at Dunnottar Castle and at Kinneff. After the union with England, they were locked in an oak chest for 111 years. Sir Walter Scott received a warrant from the future King George IV to open the Crown Room with the chest in 1818. In 1822, they were placed in Edinburgh Castle and stayed there for 132 years except for when they were buried again during World War II. The Stone of Scone had been under the Coronation Chair in Westminster Abbey for almost 700 years when it was retaken from there in 1950 and placed in Arbroath Abbey before being surrendered to the authorities. In 1996, the Queen consented to have it stay in Scotland but be brought to Westminster Abbey for coronations.
We toured Queen Mary’s Chamber where in 1566 Mary Queen of Scots gave birth to her only child, Prince James, who would become King of Scotland AND King of England.
We also toured the Victorian Prison used from 1842-1923 and the only prison of the castle where prisoners had carved some very intricate drawings into the doors.
After the castle, we visited the Tartan Centre and Weaving Exposition, but the looms weren’t doing their thing, so we went to the Scottish Whisky Experience. After taking a “barrel ride” to learn about how whisky is produced, we adjourned to the tasting room and learned about the different regions in Scotland where whisky is produced and how that affects the taste of the whisky. The Highland whiskies have a vanilla & almond flavor, the Lowlands a fruity grapefruit flavor, Speyside was a banana flavor—although not really, and Islay whiskies have a smoky flavor. Judi & I both preferred the Highland whiskies, but we really prefer not to drink whisky at all.
We ducked into Riddle’s close (or Riddell's court), which is an example of a fortified close. Looking through this narrow alley you can just make out the double courtyard, where in 1593 James VI (1566 - 1625) held a grand banquet for the nobles of the Danish embassy. There is also a 16th century house, which has a wooden staircase on the outside, typical of this period. It was here that a Bailie John McMorran, who taught at Edinburgh High School, lived. However his claim to fame was being shot dead by the boys of the school in 1595 who were protesting after he refused them a holiday!
We went to lunch at Deacon Brodie’s where we also had ginger beers. I do love a good ginger beer and Crabbie’s was a delicious one. I had one that wasn’t alcoholic and one that was. Deacon Brodie was the skilled carpenter who would deliver furniture to his clients then surreptiously place the key to the house in wax and later have a key made for himself. He would go back at night to burgle the houses to fund his drinking and gambling habits. He was hanged in 1788 for this—using a gallows he had designed and funded the year before.
Before going home, we walked through St. Giles Cathedral. Outside we found parking space #23 where the preacher who gave fiery sermons in St. Giles, John Knox, is buried. How strange that his burial place in St. Giles kirkyard now is a parking lot. After this, we called it a day. I think the whiskies and the ginger beers had something to do with our exhaustion.
Pictures from top: Edinburgh Castle entrance with Robert the Bruce on one side and William Wallace on the other; Dog Cemetery at Edinburgh Castle; one of the buildings in the castle; a silly lion atop a column in the Crown Room; Coat of Arms in Queen Mary’s Chamber.
