Susan's Adventures: 05/01/2010

Thursday, May 20, 2010

At the Beach

pictures from top: Sunset; sunset and the trees; evening at the beach; delicious barbecue at the Hog's Breath Saloon; teeny frog at our hotel.

Well, as some of you know, the plan once Ray retired was to move near the beach somewhere—for financial reasons and allergy relief. Since returning from Europe, we took a trip to North Carolina, just over the Georgia border, but we didn’t find anything we liked. Nothing that is except a little valley where the houses were so expensive that we would’ve had to go on a diet of bread and water to afford to live there. And every time we left the house, we would’ve still been confronted with the crazy redneck areas that surrounded said beautiful valley.

Our original plan was to move to Ray’s childhood area in New Hampshire, but the thought of super cold winters and FEET of snow and being SO far away from everything I knew just didn’t work out. So the other day Ray came up with the idea of moving to Florida’s Gulf Coast—over in the panhandle part of the interestingly shaped state. We would still be close to Atlanta in case we were needed, close enough to run back up to check on the house if it doesn’t sell right off, and it would solve the tax problem. And my allergy problem. Aaahhh to breathe ocean air. Like a readymade Neti pot—but without the drowning.

So we left on Monday morning to drive down to the Gulf Coast, land of sugar white beaches. I came armed with several days of research into apartments in the area—a list of about 20 apartment communities to check out. None were right on the beach, but some were close. Seems down here, the only buildings allowed to set themselves right on the beach are condos, and we don’t have the time to check those out on this trip. Ray really wanted to get the issue settled, and checking out the hundreds of condos available would take forever, so we decided to rent an apartment for a year and if we like it here, then in six months, we can start checking out condos to rent or buy.

So off we went. Armed with our new GPS, I might add. Once Ray started plotting the apartments I had found on the map, he decided, thankfully, to go ahead and purchase Tomasina—which is his name for TomTom, since we use the woman’s voice for directions. Her actual name is Susan!!! But that is just too confusing. He already has a strangely protective relationship with this contraption—no need to confuse the wife with the mistress. : )

Now we played with the directions, trying different routes, but it seems that Tomasina was correct—the route she chose is 5 hours and 20 minutes. Our best choice was going to take TWO HOURS longer! So we trusted her, even though her route looked suspiciously like the one I USED YEARS AGO WHEN Laura, Katie, and I came on a shorter vacation to Destin and got endlessly lost in the maze-like towns of Southern Alabama. And we had no GPS. I’m not even sure if they existed then!

We stopped in Newnan for breakfast at Cracker Barrel—this seems to be a requirement for any long trip in Ray’s mind. Stop for fuel for car, stop for fuel for us at Cracker Barrel. Then we got on I-85 and headed toward Montgomery.

In Montgomery we took I-65, but only for a short way. Here is where I got lost with the girls—once you leave I-65, the roads take you through an interminable maze of winding lanes in and out of tiny country towns and fields with cattle. I can’t say cows, which I usually like to “moo” at because these are obviously cows raised for beef as the signs attest to.

And speaking of signs, in Luverne—don’t you love that name?--there was one for the General Store and its offer of “Hot Dogs at the Window.” And sure enough, when we passed by there was a small sidewalk window where you could order and wait for your hot dogs—is anyone really in THAT big of a hurry that they couldn’t come inside? In some small town or between towns there was a sign that advertised: Inside Grocery—Live Rattlesnakes on Display. Guess better inside than roaming the streets. At least they warn you.

Then on the map I saw a town with Opp written beside it. I though surely this must be an abbreviation for something else. Opelika, Opportunity, something. But no, it was just Opp. Opp Drugstore, Opp General Store, Opp High School.

So we finally made it out of Alabama and into Florida and the roads changed to smoother and quicker. Then it was over the Mid-Bay Bridge in Niceville (don’t know if you pronounce it like “nice” with a long i or like the Italian city ‘neece.” Then on to Destin to the great deal I found us at the Wyndham Wingate Hotel for 3 nights. We quickly unpacked and then headed out to just drive around the area. I got out my list to recheck where the hotels were. Since we were IN Destin, I suggested we start there, but Ray thought we should head straight to Panama City Beach, so off we went. First thing on the checklist was to be sure a Chick-fil-a was nearby—there was one in Destin and when we saw one in Panama City Beach, that was taken care off—you have to get your priorities taken care of, you know. : )

We drove by a few of the apartments on my list without stopping and went on to the one farthest down on the map. And when we got there, Ray pulled in and said let’s go talk to them. Surprise to me…he had said we were just scoping out the area. Well, we spoke with the leasing agent, Boston, who showed us the two bedroom model, which was all they had available right now, and I was hesitant to even look because I was set on 3 bedrooms—one for us, one for an office and one for guests—but I went along. It was very nice, but I still wanted 3 bedrooms, which I told Boston and Ray. I really played hardball here. At the end of the discussion, Boston asked us if we were going to look at other apartment complexes and we said yes.

Then he asked if we would just fill out the paperwork so that if a 3 bedroom came available, even though it would be 60 days after that that it would actually be ready with vacancy notices, etc., then at least paperwork would be all done. So we did and once he saw the information on the application, his whole attitude changed. I still was adamant about a 3 bedroom, much to his chagrin. So as we were leaving, I asked when he thought a 3 bedroom might come up. He had said before that they RARELY are available. He was still trying to get me to be interested in a two bedroom. I told him once more that if a 3 bedroom ON THE 3rd FLOOR came available to let us know and if we still hadn’t found somewhere else, we would probably take it.

In an amazing turn of events, he rechecked his list and asked us to wait one second please, and he went in to talk to his manager and came back out to say that the paperwork deadline for the applicant for the only 3 bedroom available had passed, and we could have it if we wanted it! What floor is it on? I asked. THIRD FLOOR. And it is a corner unit and has a lovely view of the forest.

So looks like as of the middle of July or so, we will officially become Florida residents. Our apartment looks kind of like a Disney hotel, so we should feel right at home. It has 9-foot ceilings, ceramic tile and designer carpet (can’t have everything—would have preferred hardwood floors, but none of the apartments had that), garden-style tub in Master, ceiling fans, screened –in porch, and walk-in closets in all 3 bedrooms. We have 3 bedrooms and 2 baths, I think it was a granite-topped countertop bar, washer and dryer, and we have a beautiful walk-in, zero-entry swimming pool in this gated community. We hope it will be fun and that it will be a good base to explore the area and see if we want to buy down here. One mile from gorgeous sugar-white sandy beaches and right across the road from a really nice golf course and club. And we are on the top floor of three floors on the corner of the building, so it should be nice.

Now that the apartment decision was made, we had two days to relax and get to know the area. We drove around and found the beaches and shopping areas, found some really good restaurants, and the Pier Park Shopping Complex that is about a mile down the road. It has restaurants and a huge movie theater with chairs that actually do recline, so we saw Robin Hood with Russell Crowe and Cate Blanchett.

Then it was time to head home. We drove through Dothan, Alabama where we saw a strange sign for the Easter Egg Drop. Here is a piece from the Dothan newspaper that describes this “fun” event:

Dylan Townsend’s face lit up Saturday as the fierce-looking black helicopter hovered overhead. He was among the thousands of children who applauded the chopper’s arrival, squealing with delight as nearly 15,000 plastic eggs were dropped like missiles from a helicopter at the National Peanut Festival Fairgrounds during the Annual Easter Egg Drop sponsored by Bethel Baptist Church. The multi-colored eggs, containing candy and prizes, bounced like rubber balls when they hit the ground and sent children scampering in a race to gather the most.

Wow! There were also signs for a candidate for Treasurer of Alabama with a very strange name: Young Boozer. Don’t know if I would vote for him—I would have to research the origin of the name or nickname.

Now we are home and it is time to ready the house for sale. Time to divide up our possessions into categories: things to bring down to Florida, things to put in storage, and things to give away or donate. Busy time in preparation for moving to the beach. Yay!

Pictures from top: our apartments through the trees; huge hotel in Destin; seagulss and sunset; clouds with silver linings; huge prints made in the sand--yikes!

Monday, May 3, 2010

Tuesday, May 4

Off the ship early and headed for one night in Orlando before driving on to Peachtree City. Easy drive and reached Orlando by 12. Will go to Olive Garden (which I have been craving for some reason) for dinner then over to Downtown Disney for Ghirardelli's Ice Cream Parlour for banana split for Ray and a Double Chocolate Brownie Sundae for me. Oh My!!

Monday, May 3 Nassau, Bahamas

Nassau is on New Providence Island and was once the home to pirates including Calico Jack, Ann Bonney, and Blackbeard. The Duke & Duchess of Windsor came here to settle when he (King Edward VII) gave up the throne.

With dire warnings quoted from Katie from the state department site about violence here and a total lack of interest—we hadn’t even gotten off here on our Disney cruise several years ago—I stayed onboard and hoped to enjoy the quietness of the ship (but as it turned out, not many people seemed to get off here) & Ray went for another snorkeling excursion.

Ray saw many colorful fish and a stingray, which he avoided, while I finished a very good book. We have decided to forego dinner in the dining room as, this evening, it involves something new that includes juggling waiters?!?!?! Instead we will have hamburgers and hot dogs at the outdoor café and retire to the cabin to pack our belongings in preparation for disembarkation tomorrow morning. One night in Orlando—so close, yet Ray says we are NOT going into DisneyWorld—-wink, wink, would you care to place a bet on this? Anyway, then it's home to Peachtree City on Wednesday.

pictures: Nassau; bridge and Nassau just outside Nassau harbour.

Sunday, May 2, 2010

Sunday, May 2 Another day at sea

The only thing on the schedule for today is the Mariner’s Lunch where we pick up our special gift—probably new tiles to add to our collection. We have already received our pins for over 75 nights onboard Holland America ships. Dinner in the Lido then movie in the cabin. Aaaah...relaxation...no plans...

Saturday, May 1, 2010

Saturday, May 1 St. Thomas—sorry closed for business

Well, we happen to be hitting St. Thomas on a Saturday when they are having a carnival, so all the shops are closed except for a few of the ones in the cruise terminal. So Ray decided to do a snorkeling trip then we went ashore to do our liquor run at Riise Bros at this location.

This is the island where Laura and Joey lived for a year when they were just married. We docked in Charlotte-Amalie (pronounced “shar lut uh MAL yuh”). St. Thomas was purchased by the U.S. from Denmark for $25 million to help protect the Panama Canal. We have been here several times before, so we weren’t too upset by not being able to do our regular sightseeing here. The cruise director warned of HEAVY traffic and no taxis to be found.

pictures from top: elephant towel friend; 2 views of St. Thomas harbour.

Leaving Martinique

pictures from top: another mixture of old and new side-by-side; Carbet--landing site of Christopher Columbus and the village where Gauguin lived; Mt. Pelee.

Friday, April 30 Fort-De-France, Martinique

Happy Birthday, Queen of the Netherlands! This is a Dutch ship, so that little piece of history would have been unbeknownst to us had we not taken this cruise.

Martinique is known as the island of flowers and is celebrated for its glorious gardens and rampant rain forest. The city of Fort-de-France is set against a backdrop of dark green hills. It is laid out like a stadium grandstand surrounding a yacht-filled harbour and is very elegant. The city is distinctly Parisian. The banana industry is very profitable here. The films “To Have & Have Not” & “Thomas Crown Affair” were filmed in part here. And it is mentioned in the Beach Boys’ hit. It has been French since 1815. The beguine dance was originated here in the French West Indies and there are professional groups who perform it. Fried flying fish is a local favorite, enjoyed with a rum aperitif and baguette.

We were warned of the machineel trees as they ooze a toxic sap that burns human skin. The trees are generally marked with red paint, though, and we saw none.

The islanders only speak French here. The French architecture is beautiful but very expensive. A 2-bedroom apartment would cost 200,000 Euros. Shopping is easy with narrow streets to explore covered with flat-fronted buildings adorned with elaborate ironwork balconies. We went ashore at 8 am and it was already 90 degrees and 100% humidity. We lasted about 45 minutes. During this time, we visited Saint Louis Cathedra with its pretty stained glass windows that recall episodes in local history. The church, inaugurated in 1671, has been victim to earthquake, fire, and cyclone, but each time it was restored. It was also designed by Henri Picq and was completely restored in 1978. There were so many people here in the cathedral that I didn’t feel comfortable taking pictures, so I shot one and we walked through then left.

There also are not many shops catering to tourists, so we weren’t able to get our normal shopping done—pin and shotglass and postcards. We walked over to the Schoelcher Library with its façade reminiscent of Parisian work blended with a pagoda. Henri Picq, who also designed the Eiffel Tower, was the architect. This building was designed for the 1895 Expo in Paris then dismantled and shipped here in pieces and reassembled on its present site. Victor Schoelcher, for whom the library is named, was an ardent French abolitionist who helped end slavery in 1848.

Napoleon’s Creole wife, Josephine, was born here. The islanders have a love/hate affair with her—she kept slavery alive on the island until nearly 70 years after the French government had abolished it in the 18th century. Her statue here was beheaded 10 years ago. When we arrived at the Place de la Savane, it seems her whole BODY was missing, though. All that was left was the platform she was supposed to be standing upon. Maybe she was in repairs to receive a new head.

Other tragedies on Martinique have included Hurricane Dean in 2007, an earthquake of 7 on Richter scale in 2007, and, in the further past, the eruption of Mount Pelee in 1902 which destroyed the town of St. Pierre and killed all but 2 of its 29,000 residents. The popular harbourfront Le Mouillage district was know for its bustling commerce as well as its laissez-faire attitudes and nighttime activities. It was the main port in the Antilles and came to be known as the “Paris of the West Indies.” The governor had sent up men (the most knowledgeable one was a high school science teacher) to check out the dangers then lessened the likelihood of problems and convinced the newspapers not to run stories about imminent danger for he didn’t want the citizens to leave town because there was an election coming up on May 11. He even went so far as to put police on the roads to turn back those who did try to leave.

All this came to an abrupt end on May 8, 1902, when Mt. Pelee, after rumbling for several weeks, erupted with such force, the entire region was buried in burning ash. The only ones saved were a shoemaker and one prisoner who was in the dungeon of the prison with no windows, only a grate above the door. Both were burned badly and told of the extremely hot air and ash that killed all the citizens of St. Pierre. The prisoner, nicknamed Samson even before this incident, went on to tour with Barnum and Bailey Circus. The only city landmark that survived intact was the 1766 Bridge of Stone which once joined the city’s central neighborhoods. There was one young girl who was told by her mother that morning to go up to the Corkscrew—a local tourist attraction that had steps down into a hole on the volcano’s side. She reported seeing a lake of red inside the volcano with blue flames and seeing 3 people die as they were trying to come up out of the corkscrew. She saw the side collapse in and the pyroclastic flow pour down over the city along with the ash cloud. The cloud even killed some people on ships in the harbour. The girl managed to make it into her brother’s boat and rowed to a cave to hide until the water rose almost to the roof of the cave. She was found days later in her charred and beaten boat 2 miles out to sea.

This afternoon, we sat on the outside deck to watch as the captain sailed us past Mt. Pelee and the ruins of St. Pierre. You could see the path the pyroclastic flow took down the side of the volcano, but the top of the volcano and the crater were totally covered in clouds. In October of 1902, a huge 1000 feet high lava dome formed that was 500 feet wide. It collapsed at a later time but caused no further damage.

We were led away by a pod of what must’ve been 50 porpoises. Dessert tonight was Key Lime Pie—oh so delicious.

pictures from top: talk about a mix of cultures!; Schoelcher Library; shops in Fort-de-France; palms--fantail palms?; walkway to our ship.