Strange occurrences: 114 mph winds in Inverness yesterday, trees fell on train and cars, entire city without power AND all flights to Scotland cancelled because of ash cloud from new volcano eruption in Iceland. President Obama even had to leave Ireland early because of it. The ash cloud was supposed to reach our area by noon today. But our adventures go on.
Off we went this morning to Fowey to find St. Catherine’s Castle so we could get a good view of the white cross at St. Saviour’s Point. On the way into town we saw Tristan’s Stone, a 7-foot tall grave marker that many associate with the legend of Tristan and Iseult and King Mark. Although the Latin lettering is faded, it reads: DRUSTANS HIC IACIT CVNOWORI FILVS (“Here lies Drustanus, son of Cunomorus”) which has been interpreted as Tristan, son of King Mark. Archaeology and etymology to some extent support this—Mark was King of Cornwall and Tristan was said to be from Lyonesse, a land now under the sea to the SW of Cornwall.
St. Saviour’s Point is at the entrance to the river at Polruan and is the point where Jesus stepped ashore on a trip here. The white cross on the rocks just offshore is called Punches Cross. The roads in Fowey were narrow and twisty and had few turnouts or passing places, and it was fun for me but a bit of trepidation for Ray as we made our way between stone walls or hedges anywhere from 3- 30 feet high almost touching the car on both sides. But we got our picture and were on to the little town of Lerryn.
Lerryn is tucked away way out in the countryside through man, many tree tunnels and narrow winding single track roads. Sometimes I think our GPS system is a crow as she seems to point us in the straightest path possible regardless of the size or condition of the road then we navigate her route and then find that there was a simpler route. Oh well, I feel we have really come to know Cornwall because of her directions. The town of Lerryn was evidently the inspiration for Kenneth Grahame’s “Wind in the Willows.” We didn’t see Toad Hall, but I could certainly get a sense of where he got his ideas in this tiny town on the river.
We passed by a sign for Dozmary Pool and decided to head for it. It is a small lake on Bodmin Moor and is one site that is claimed to be the home of the Lady iof the Lake. According to the legend, it is here that King Arthur rowed out to the Lady of the Lake and received the sword Excalibur. The pool today was the site of several cows getting their feet wet! The pool is also the place where Bedivere returned Excalibur as Arthur lay dying after the Battle of Camlann. Another tale associated with Dozmary Pool is that of Jan Tregeagle. In search of deviant exploits, Tregeagle makes a Faustian bargain with the Devil and is given money and power. At the conclusion of his life, he is damned to the bottomless Dozmary Pool, where he is tormented to this day; it is said that Tregagle's ghost can still be heard howling across the moor. (He was set the task of dipping the water out of Dozmary Pool with a leaking limpet shell, but decided to escape to Roche Rock before being set another task, weaving ropes from the sand of Gwenor Cove.)
As we exited the single track road near Bolventor, we saw the Jamaica Inn. Jamaica Inn hotel, Cornwall's legendary coaching house, immortalised in Daphne du Maurier's novel of the same name, has stood high on Bodmin Moor for over four centuries. It is Cornwall’s most famous smuggling inn. Daphne du Maurier set her “Jamaica Inn” here. Many people who have stayed here have reported strange incidents in the night. The popular TV program “Most Haunted” featured Jamaica Inn in what they said was one of the spookiest programs they had ever recorded!
Previous managers of Jamaica Inn have heard conversations uttered in a foreign tongue, possibly the Cornish language. For years there have been many stories of hauntings at Jamaica Inn and recently the Ghost Society has made in-depth investigations and compiled a report based on their findings. The areas of substantial interest to the investigation were, The Smuggler's Bar, The Stable Bar, the restaurant and upstairs in bedroom four.
From the Inn’s website: Murder at the Inn: Many years ago, a stranger stood at the bar enjoying a tankard of ale. Upon being summoned outside, he left the half finished ale and stepped out into the night. That was the last time he was seen alive. The next morning his corpse was found on the bleak moor but the manner of his death and the identity of his assailant still remain a mystery.
Previous landlords, upon hearing footsteps tramping along the passage to the bar, believe it is the dead man's spirit returning to finish his drink.
Who is the stranger sitting motionless on the wall outside? In 1911 there was much interest and correspondence in the press concerning a strange man who had been seen by many people, sitting on the wall outside the Inn. He neither spoke nor moved nor acknowledged a greeting but his appearance was uncannily like the murdered stranger. Could this be the dead man's ghost? And what strange compulsion drove it to return to the same spot so often?
Ghosts would explain the clatter of horses hooves on cobbled ground heard in the depths of night. During the early 1900s the Inn was used as a temperance house but there have always been spirits of a different kind at Jamaica Inn.
On a moonlit night, when all is still, how can any earthly person explain the sound of horses' hooves and the metal rims of wheels turning on the rough cobbles of the courtyard? Yet there is nothing to be seen! Who can explain the uneasy footsteps heard pacing the corridors in the dead of night? Who is the strange man in a tricorne hat and cloak who appears and then walks through solid doors?
Then we found an ASDA store, which had a little Walmart sign under it, and I was able to find lots of stuff I needed. I think we’re going back into St. Austell to find a little restaurant on the water for dinner. And for dessert, one more of the fabulously delicious strawberry filled doughnuts that we bought at Morrison's grocers--cannot say enough about these treats. Tomorrow we are off for Wales again.
pictures from top: St. Catherine's Castle in Fowey; 3 pics of Lerryn; Jamaica Inn.
